Vietnam: Backroads & Byways 2024
Workshop Information Package
Contents:
I. General Information
II. To Do Checklist
III. Daily Itinerary
IV. FAQ’s
Vietnam Backroads & Byways
General Information
Workshop Dates: Sep 22 – Oct 06, 2024
WELCOME!
Thanks again for joining our 2024 Vietnam: Backroads & Byways Photography Workshop. I can’t wait to share the amazing scenery and fascinating cultures of northern Vietnam with you. But first, a bit of planning is needed to make sure everything goes smoothly. This document contains important information to help you prepare for our journey. Please take some time to carefully review it.
WORKSHOP OVERVIEW
The workshop begins when we pick you up from Noi Bai International airport (Airport Code: HAN) on Sep 22 in Hanoi, Vietnam and ends when we drop you off at Noi Bai on Oct 06 for your homeward flight.
In between, we will travel extensively throughout northern Vietnam, photographing spectacular landscapes including steep mountain karsts and stunning terraced rice fields. We’ll also spend lots of time exploring the culture of the far north, especially the many colorful ethnic minority groups who live here. We’ll get around in an air-conditioned minivan/bus with a professional driver and local guide. Our accommodations will range from 4-star hotels/resorts to a village homestay to two nights aboard a private luxury charter boat in world famous Halong Bay.
Take a look at the Daily Itinerary in this packet or on the workshop page of our website for more details about the locations we will visit and the things we can expect to see and photograph throughout our journey.
BALANCE OF FEES
The balance of your workshop fees are due by May 22, 2024. You will receive an invoice by email in mid-April. Payment can be made online by credit card. Your on-time payment is much appreciated.
TRAVEL LOGISTICS & DOCUMENTS
International Flights
Arrival – book your flights to arrive in Hanoi (airport code: HAN) no later than 2pm on Sep 22 (our first group activity is at 4pm). Our representative will meet you at the airport and transport you to our hotel. Look for someone holding a sign with your name after you clear Immigration and pick up your luggage.
Departure– book your departing flight for anytime on Oct 06. We will transport you to the airport in time for your flight.
Please forward a copy of your travel itinerary to us ASAP to facilitate pickup/drop-off planning
Additional Hotel Nights – if you are planning to arrive early or stay after the workshop ends and need additional hotel nights in Hanoi, let us know and we can book them for you (additional cost ~$140 USD per night including breakfast).
Passport – make sure your passport is valid for at least 6 months beyond our return date. Please send us a copy/photo of the picture page of your passport.
Visas – If you are an American citizen, a Vietnam Tourist Visa is required to enter Vietnam. You will not be allowed to board your flight to Vietnam without a valid visa. If you are a citizen of another country, check online or with the Vietnamese embassy or consulate in your country.
The best way to obtain a visa is to apply on the official Vietnam government eTourist Visa online website. The application process is very simple and straightforward and costs only $25. The processing time is usually 3 days or less, but don’t wait to take check off this important task.
Use the info in the image below to complete your Vietnam eVisa application
Here is an image of a Vietnam Tourist e-Visa. You can download yours from the e-visa site after your application is approved. Bring electronic and printed copies with you when you begin your travels. Carefully check that all information on the visa is correct. You will not be allowed to board your outbound flight without a valid visa.
Travel Insurance – a policy that covers medical evacuation is a requirement for participation on this trip. Policies that cover medical evacuation as well as many other things like trip cancellation, lost luggage, theft/loss, etc. are widely available and quite affordable. See the FAQ’s for recommendations. Please send us a copy of your proof of coverage.
Notify Banks & Credit Cards – notify your financial institutions about your travel plans to prevent problems using credit cards or ATM’s while traveling.
Local Currency – You should convert some cash to VND (Vietnamese Dong) in Hanoi. ATM’s are available in Hanoi but not so much in the countryside. Don’t rely on ATM’s…bring some cash. The current exchange rate is 1 USD = 24,235VND. Tip: it’s handy to download a currency conversion app to your smartphone. I use one called XE, but there are many free apps available.
Note: US Dollars (USD) are NOT generally accepted, especially outside of Hanoi. Credit/debit cards are also not accepted in many small shops in the countryside. All of your major travel expense (meals, lodging, etc) are included in the workshop fee, but you will want some cash for beverages, souvenirs, tips & other purchases.
Using Your Mobile Phone – Vietnam has an amazingly robust mobile phone network (high speed 4G LTE Data almost everywhere, including deep in the mountains) Most US carriers have agreements with Vietnamese mobile phone companies that allow you to get service in Vietnam but plans may be pricey or only allow for very limited data rates.
Therefore, the best bet is to purchase a local SIM card. We’ve planned a group trip to a local phone shop to purchase SIMs but if you decide to get your own, make sure to get one from Viettel (local carrier who has the best network in the mountains). Cost is very reasonable (~$15-$25 USD) but your responsibility. Pre-purchasing third party international data plans by companies like Arialo is NOT recommended – we’ve never been able to get them to work.
WhatsApp - a free communications app that is used widely in Asia. We will be using WhatsApp for inter group communications. Please download & install WhatsApp and create an account before arriving in Vietnam. You may want to also want to have your loved ones install this app also. Facetime, Facebook Messenger and other internet-based messaging services should also work with your local SIM.
HEALTH/MEDICAL
Medications –make sure to pack an adequate supply of any prescription and non-prescription medications you take (pain relievers, sleep aids, supplements, etc.), as they may not be available in Vietnam. You may also want to carry a course of antibiotics, just in case. Request a prescription for ‘traveler’s diarrhea’ from your health provider or travel clinic. If you’re prone to motion sickness or have a delicate stomach, some Dramamine and Immodium might be a good idea.
Immunizations - No specific immunizations are required to visit Vietnam but you should check with your health provider’s travel clinic or consult the CDC website for health/immunization recommendations. Malaria prophylaxis may be recommended
Allergies – please let us know about any allergies you have AND the severity of your reactions. It is your responsibility to carry appropriate medications (e.g. Epi Pen) in case of accidental exposure.
THINGS TO PACK
The following are suggestions for items to bring along on this trip. It is not meant to be a complete packing list.
Weather Note – September is the beginning of cooler & drier season in Vietnam, but a heat wave or thunderstorms are still possibilities. Below are average high and low temps for the coastal and mountain regions during the time we will be visiting:
Hanoi/Coastal 89˚F (32˚C)/77˚F (25˚ C)
Mountains 74˚F (-3˚C)/61˚F (-11˚ C)
Generally, you can expect hot and humid at lower elevations and a bit cooler and drier in the mountains. Rain showers can happen at any time but are usually brief.
Clothing – cool, light and quick drying are the key features you want to keep in mind when selecting your clothing for this trip. Synthetics perform better than cotton in general. Don’t overpack, laundry service will be available whenever we stay in the same place for two nights, but I’ll often rinse out a t-shirt, socks or underwear in the sink or shower in between if necessary. Other items you will want to have include:
Hat & Sunglasses – for protection from the sun
Rain jacket – something very lightweight and waterproof.
Shoes – waterproof trail or very lightweight hiking boots are an ideal choice. We won’t be doing much hiking, but the rice fields and other surfaces can be slippery/muddy, especially after rain. Choose comfortable shoes with good traction that you can walk in all day. A pair of flip flops or slippers will also be handy for around the hotel/lodges.
Bathing suit – in case you get the urge to jump into a mountain stream or in Halong Bay.
Sports Bra – a top suggestion from past female participants…the roads can be quite bumpy at times.
Small Daypack – just big enough to stash a lens or two and some personal items. Saves you from having to lug your big photo backpack around everywhere.
Walking Stick/Trekking Pole (optional) – can help on muddy/slippery areas but just another thing to carry. It’s your call, but choose a collapsible model if your bring one.
Ear plugs (optional)
Photo Gear – it’s tempting to bring everything you own, but that usually works against you. Limitations are an important driver of creativity and having too many options often just results in indecision. Still, good gear helps get the job done, so the following are some general recommendations for this workshop. I’m happy to give my two cents about more specific brands/models. Just ask.
Cameras – pretty much any modern dSLR or mirrorless body will do the job. Some of the higher end ‘bridge’ cameras would also be a good choice, especially if you want to minimize weight. Bringing a paper or electronic copy of your camera’s operating manual is also recommended. Your smartphone is also a great camera – don’t forget it.
Lenses – We will be shooting a wide variety of subjects so having a lens(es) covering focal lengths from wide angle to medium telephoto is a good strategy for maximum versatility.
I like zoom lenses for their flexibility in composing images, but that’s just my personal preference. Unless I’m specifically going after wildlife, my travel kit these days consists of 3 lenses:
12-24mm wide angle zoom – to see the big picture
24-105mm – my default ‘walk around’ lens
80-200mm telephoto – for isolating subjects or when you need a little extra reach
Your kit will look different. You might favor prime lenses or choose to work with a single lens. You could easily do this trip with just the 24-105 or a good phone camera. I recommend bringing no more than 3 or 4 lenses total.
Batteries and Memory cards – you will be shooting a lot, maybe more than you ever have, easily in the thousands of images and hundreds of gigabytes (GB) total. Bring PLENTY of extra cards and batteries. You should NOT erase/overwrite any memory cards until you get home, even if you have downloaded the images to your laptop or hard drive.
Battery Charger – DO NOT FORGET!!! As a backup, you might consider purchasing USB powered battery charger. They are inexpensive and let you charge your camera batteries from USB ports in your vehicle, laptop. power bank, etc. Google “(your camera model) USB charger”.
Camera Rain Protection – mountain weather is unpredictable, so having a cover to protect your expensive gear is smart. There are many choices available and I’ve tried quite a few, but I haven’t found anything better than O/P Tech’s Rainsleeve, which happens to be one of the least expensive options. Make sure to get the right size(s) to fit all your lenses
Tripod – recommended but not required. Sturdy, but light with a ballhead or gimbal and a quick release mount is the way to go. Make sure your tripod can solidly support your longest lens and that you don’t have to bend over uncomfortably WITHOUT extending the center column. Don’t forget to pack your tripod quick release plate(s)!
Camera bag or backpack – there are an infinite number of options out there – it’s really a matter of personal preference. My advice is to choose something that is no bigger than it must be.
Filters – A polarizing filter is highly recommended for cutting glare off water and foliage. The only other filter I would consider bringing is a graduated neutral density (GND) filter.
Small Microfiber towel(s) – a couple of these inside zip-loc bags will ensure you always have a dry towel to clean and wipe moisture and dirt from cameras and lenses.
Headlamp – MUCH better than a flashlight because it leaves both hands free. A good item to always have in your bag.
Flying with Camera Gear – Nobody even wants to think about being forced to check precious photo equipment so make sure your camera bag easily fits into an overhead compartment or under the seat. Don’t attract unwanted attention by bringing a huge photo backpack!
Other Things to Pack
Passport & Travel Docs (e.g. Vietnam Visa)
Power adapters – Vietnam runs on 220 volt electricity and most outlets in Vietnam accept both 2 prong US style (Type A) and European (Type C) plugs. This means that most (2 prong) power cords for phones/tablets, laptops and other electronics will fit their outlets and work fine without adapters. Check higher power devices like hair dryers or shavers to make sure they are compatible with 220 volt power. It’s also good idea to have at least one Type A to Type C or universal adapter just in case. Here is a link to a good article on travel adapters if you need more info. Finally, if your device has a 3-prong plug, you will need a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter(s) which you can purchase online or at any hardware store.
Laptop or tablet –highly recommended. Your photography will improve if you review your images daily. Doing preliminary selects and ratings also makes the mountain of images more manageable when you get home. Make sure you have enough available space on your internal hard drive or bring a small external drive. If you are going to purchase a drive, I recommend getting a ‘bus powered’ model like this one because they don’t require external power (runs off laptop’s usb port). Remember to pack all your power/charging/data cables.
Chargers and cables for your mobile phone and other electronics
Power bank – extremely handy when traveling to charge up your phone, other electronics or even a camera battery (usb battery charger required)
Sunglasses
Spare eyeglasses or contact lenses
Personal toiletries
Sunscreen & Bug Spray
Instant Coffee Packets – Vietnamese coffee may not be your cup of tea. It’s very strong and served in very small quantities. If you gotta have that morning cup or 3, I highly recommend bringing a supply of Starbucks Via packets (or your preferred brand).
MISC
A Word About Gratuities – Like many service businesses, our guides and drivers rely on gratuities for a substantial portion of their income. I think you will find our local guide & driver in Vietnam to be outstanding at what they do. If you feel you’ve received good service, a gratuity is greatly appreciated. People always ask me for guidance on amounts and I always feel uncomfortable answering – what I can say is that the typical range I see is:
Driver: $5–$7/day
Guide: $12–$18/day
Tipping at hotels and restaurants is not expected, but small gratuities are appreciated.
Again, if you have any questions about the information contained here or any other aspect of this workshop, please contact me.
I look forward to meeting you in Hanoi,
Ken Lee
+1 949-282-9660 mobile/WhatsApp
ken@artofseeing.com
Vietnam: Backroads & Byways
To Do Checklist
___ Book Inbound/Outbound flights to/from Hanoi (HAN) and send us a copy of your flight itinerary.
___ Let us know if you need any extra hotel nights
___ Apply for Vietnam Visa
___ Check with your Doctor/Travel Clinic about any recommended immunizations
___ Send us a copy of your Passport picture page (phone photo is fine)
___ Purchase Travel Insurance. Send us a copy of proof of coverage
___ Notify Banks & Credit Cards of your travel plans
___ Check mobile phone carrier’s international roaming policies and plans
___ Install WhatsApp on your phone and create account
___ Make personal packing checklist. Click here for a generic template that you can download and customize.
2024 Vietnam: Backroads & Byways Workshop
Daily Itinerary
Itinerary:
Day | Date | Itinerary | Overnight | Included Meals |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sep 22 | Arrival in Hanoi–Welcome to Vietnam! Our adventure begins when we meet you upon arrival at No Bai (HAN) International Airport. We will transport you to our 4-star hotel in Hanoi where you can relax and recover from your travels until 4pm when our group gathers for introductions and Workshop Overview meeting followed by an evening stroll around Hanoi’s Old Quarter and group dinner | La Siesta Hotel or similar | D |
2 | Sep 23 | Hanoi – Mu Cang Chai – our first full day is a busy one with a pre-dawn start at Long Bien, Hanoi’s central market where we’ll witness the organized chaos of vendors and suppliers trading all manner of produce and seafood. After breakfast and a chance to catch our breath, we board our private minibus for the drive to Mu Cang Chai the most spectacular terraced rice fields in all of Vietnam – that’s saying a lot! We’ll spend the afternoon exploring the region, photographing stunning landscapes and visiting with the locals in their villages and fields. Overnight at Mu Cang Chai resort. | Tu Le Charm Resort | B-L-D |
3 | Sep 24 | Mu Cang Chai -– we’ll explore this amazing region with our cameras from dawn to sunset, capturing its jaw-dropping landscapes and its inhabitants in traditional attire. Overnight at Mu Cang Chai resort. | Tu Le Charm Resort | B-L-D |
4 | Sep 25 | Mu Cang Chai – Sapa - In the morning we head north towards the mountain town of Sapa. It’s definitely on the tourist trail but for good reason, it’s surroundings are beautiful! We’ll stroll through a small Hmong village in the valley where we can observe and photograph the people going about their daily lives. Overnight at Sapa Hotel | Pao’s Sapa Hotel | B-L-D |
5 | Sep 26 | Sapa – Hoang Su Phi - wake up early to capture stunning images of the valley below as the sun rises. You won’t have to go far, however, because the best viewpoints are from our hotel. After breakfast, we head north towards Ha Giang province, which most Vietnamese agree is their most beautiful. Both the drive and destination are off-the-charts beautiful, so we’ll take our time exploring the nooks and crannies in search of both grand landscapes and more intimate visions of its inhabitants. Overnight at Hoang Su Phi Ecolodge | Hoang Su Phi Eco Lodge | B-L-D |
6 | Sep 27 | Hoang Su Phi - All day exploration of this spectacular area starting with a sunrise photoshoot at nearby rice terraces. Later we’ll visit a tea processing facility and t some remote villages in the backcountry. We’ll also leave a little time to simply enjoy our beautiful ecolodge situated in the middle of a terraced rice plantation. | Hoang Su Phi Eco Lodge | B-L-D |
7 | Sep 28 | Hoang Su Phi – Dong Van - we’ll continue our exploration of scenic Ha Giang province as we make our way to the town of Dong Van. The journey once again is the destination, so we’ll make lots of stops for photos along the way. It doesn’t seem possible, but as we approach Dong Van, the landscape gets even more dramatic as undulating rice terraces give way to steep limestone mountains known as karsts. Overnight at Dong Van hotel. | Hoa Cuong Hotel | B-L-D |
8 | Sep 29 | Dong Van - we start early to catch sunrise on famed Ma Pi Leng pass with its dramatic karsts and lush vegetation. Then we’ll proceed to Meo Vac for breakfast at a local restaurant before visiting the Meo Vac ‘s Sunday market in where villagers from across the region gather to eat, socialize and trade all manner of produce, goods and livestock. It’s an amazing scene, full of opportunities to capture authentic images of locals interacting in their ornate and colorful attire. Overnight at Dong Van hotel. |
Hoa Cuong Hotel | B-L-D | 9 | Sep 30 | Dong Van – Cao Bang - we’ll take another shot at sunrise on Ma Pi Leng Pass Then a break for breakfast before descending to the valley floor to board a boat for a river tour. Afterwards drive to Cao Bang. Dinner and overnight in Cao Bang |
Cao Bang Hotel | B-L-D | 10 | Oct 1 | Cao Bang – Ban Gioc Waterfall– our primary destination today is majestic, multi-tiered Ban Gioc falls on the Quay Son river, which forms the international border with China. On the ways, we’ll visit a knife-making village where craftsmen forge new knives from old automobile suspension springs. Overnight at Ban Gioc resort. |
Saigon Ban Gioc Resort | B-L-D | 11 | Oct 2 | Ban Gioc to Bac Son– we depart early for the scenic drive to the breathtaking Bac Son Valley. A multitude of steep karsts rise dramatically from the flat floor of the Red River Delta to create an amazingly photogenic landscape. We’ll explore this territory with our cameras from multiple vantage points. We’ll also visit with members of the local Tay ethnic minority, see their traditional stilt houses and learn a bit about their way of life. Overnight at Bac Son homestay. |
Bac Son homestay | B-L-D | 12 | Oct 3 | Bac Son to Ha Long Bay – after an early morning photoshoot and breakfast, we make our way down the scenic Red River valley towards the coast. We arrive at the harbor in the late afternoon and board our private ‘junk’ (traditional ship) for a 2-night private charter cruise through world-famous Halong Bay. Having our own vessel allows us to minimize the impact of the tourist hordes on our experience and photography. Cruising amongst steep karst formations rising dramatically out of the water is a breathtaking experience, especially as the sun begins to set. Overnight aboard ship in Halong Bay.
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Private charter ship | B-L-D | 13 | Oct 4 | Ha Long Bay - a second day in Halong Bay allows us to truly explore this amazing UNESCO World Heritage site. The scenery is breathtaking, but this is also a great opportunity to just relax and recover from our busy schedule or perhaps begin plowing through the mountain of images you’ve accumulated. Ken will share some of his favorite post processing tips & tricks with the group while onboard and be available for one-on-one image reviews. Overnight aboard ship in Halong Bay. |
Private charter ship | B-L-D | 14 | Oct 5 | Ha Long Bay – Hanoi - we start our third day on the water with a sunrise photo session aboard ship. After breakfast, we’ll cruise through Halong Bay to a floating village where can photograph the locals tending their fish pens and preparing for a day on the water. Then we enjoy a fabulous brunch while we make our way towards shore for the drive back to Hanoi. Once there you can do a little shopping or just relax in the hotel until our farewell dinner in the evening., Overnight in Hanoi hotel. |
La Siesta Hotel or similar | B-L-D | 15 | Oct 6 | Hanoi Departure - Transfer to the airport 3hrs before flight time for your flight home |
B |